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The pearl has been one of the most cherished gems throughout human history. Interestingly, it begins its life as an irritation for a living being. A grain of sand enters an oyster’s shell, and to isolate itself from this intruder, the creature covers it with a white substance known as nacre. The process is slow, much like life in the ocean. A 10mm pearl can take between 10 and 36 months to form.
The oldest known pearl was discovered in Abu Dhabi. It has a delicate pink hue and measures just 3mm in length. Carbon-14 dating revealed that it comes from rock layers that date back between 5000 and 5800 years, during the Neolithic period. This means that if you decide to buy a pearl today, there is a high chance that it could be passed down to your grandchildren and even great-grandchildren… provided you care for it properly.
Since pearls are organic, they can dissolve in acid. Cleopatra famously used this property to win a bet with Mark Antony, claiming that she could spend 10 million sesterces (equivalent to around 16.25 million euros today, according to https://aleph.org.mx/cuanto-cuesta-un-denario-hoy) on a single banquet. She dissolved a pearl in wine vinegar and drank it. Today, we know that pearls consist of calcium carbonate, which reacts with the acetic acid in vinegar to release calcium and carbon dioxide. Cleopatra understood this as well, although she couldn’t explain it as we can today. This event was depicted by Joshua Reynolds in 1752.
La Peregrina was first owned by Mary Stewart, the infamous Bloody Mary, and lastly was in the jewelry box of Elizabeth Tyler.
One of the most famous pearls in history is connected to the Spanish Royal House. Known as La Peregrina, its name reflects its long journey and change of ownership over time. It was found in Panama in 1579 (though some sources say 1515) by a slave, and was purchased by Philip II for his future wife, Isabella of Valois. Historical documents state that the pearl weighed 58.5 carats and its perfect drop shape was highly prized.
La Peregrina became part of the “rich jewel” of the House of Austria, along with the mythical 100-carat diamond “El Estanque”. Sadly, that jewel no longer exists. Queens like Margaret of Austria, Isabella of Bourbon, and Maria Luisa of Parma were known to wear La Peregrina. It was stolen by Joseph Bonaparte but recovered by Ferdinand VII upon his return to Spain.
On January 23, 1969, La Peregrina was auctioned at Parke Bernet in New York and purchased by actor Richard Burton for an impressive $37,000. Burton commissioned Cartier to create a stunning pearl necklace with La Peregrina as the centerpiece.
Would you like to learn more about the different types of pearls, how to identify them, or where to buy them?
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